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FEB 08, 2013 - Saveur

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by Kathleen Squires Since 1985, when Katsuko Nanao opened her restaurant Nanao, she's been putting her unique stamp on kaiseki, Japan's most formal cooking style. A self-taught chef with an all-female staff, Nanao bucks tradition-and her unorthodox food-sole sashimi with shreds of mountain yam, delicate fried mushrooms with gingko nuts-is what happens when home cooking meets kaiseki. It's a breath of fresh air.NanaoNo. 2 Ishihara Building, First Floor1-5-10 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku Tokyo, Japan03/3401-7770

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